Engine cooling incl radiator (20, 50)
Front axle support (Vorderachsträger, Fahrschemel) Mercedes-Benz type 220, 1954, © Daimler AG
Water pump (20)
The pump had "originally" been given a very black appearance by my father when he restored a long time ago. Restoring the water pump is rather straightforward. One problem I had was the venting screw. Both the screw and the threads in the bearing housing were damaged. MB helped me with the first issue and Colly company with the next (fine threads). Another thing was the shaft. I had some rust spots in it, just below the impeller. The rust was however so minor that we decided to let it be. Water would hardly be able to sneak through the sealings, into the bearing housing (this was probably very wrong, see below)
The bearing housing was also glass beaded and leveled by Finmekanik in Järfälla. With new bearings (sealing holder taken off), sealing rings, slip ring and pressure spring it was assembled in a beaded and tumbled water pump housing. NOTE, in order to pull the sealing ring holder off with an ordinary puller you can follow the idea in picture three. Between the vice and the impeller you have to have a counter hold so that the shaft is not pressed through/out. The flange of the water pump work as a counter hold as well.
The first picture of the water pump housing (picture 6) shows it too glossy. This was redone by Svenska Trumlingsaktiebolaget, giving it a perfect luster! It may be that some of the screws etc shouldn't be yellow cad'ed but white ditto. However, the pump works in a rather "aggressive" environment so I went for the more durable method. Note also that the new screw from MB was yellow and I didn't want to re-finish it. The flange on the bearing housing should be bare metal but I chose to rust protect it with semi gloss black paint.
And again...
As you can see in Running the engine on test bed I had problems with water leaking from the pump. The pump had to be taken off and dismantled and a new shaft installed. Extremely annoying... Don't be cheap as me, do it correctly from the beginning! Can be said that I replaced some of the "new" parts as well, the sealing and slip rings that sit next to the impeller as well as the sealing rings in the bearing housing.
With the new shaft in place the leakage got much weaker. It did however keep dripping. After an hour or so, running the engine in the test bed for further adjustments, everything, incl the slip ring I assume, had worn in and the pump was finally tight.
Next step
Before installing the engine, with its auxiliary systems mounted, I wanted to check that everything worked as it should, do necessary adjustments, re-tighten all screws and see to that I had no leaks, see Running the engine on test bed.
See also Radiator.
