The engine with its auxiliary system (01-22, 30, 50)

These pages will show you my work on the Mercedes M180 II (180.921) 2,2l six cylinder engine with all its auxiliary equipment. The restoration of the different parts of the engine and its auxiliary systems can be found in the sub menus under Engine:

  • carburetor
  • fuel pump
  • air filter
  • intake pipe and exhaust system
  • electrical equipment
  • engine cooling
  • engine suspension
  • and finally how I tested the engine before bringing it into the car

Enjoy everything!

As always I tried to follow the workshop manual which means that I won't cover the whole process and all the parts here, mainly those that shows what I did on a general level as well where I had problems or where I think my ideas and pictures can be of any help to others.

Sub-frame of Mercedes-Benz 219 with 90HP engine M 180 II, © Daimler AG

Sub-frame of Mercedes-Benz 219 with three-point suspended 90HP engine M 180 II, 1956-1959, © Daimler AG

Engine and oil pump (01, 03, 05, 18)

The first round - more or less

The first picture in the gallery below shows you the "original" status of the engine. The red color comes from my fathers total restoration, a couple of 1000km before the dismantling of the car. It will be changed back to black, semi-gloss. The following three pictures shows you the first part of the restoration process, which started in February 2003 when there was no more to do on the chassis. After having had the engine stored separately for almost 10 years I had it "sitting" in oil for a couple of weeks in case anything started to rust.

Mercedes-Benz engine M 180 II, © Daimler AG

Mercedes-Benz 219 engine M 180 II - Type 219 six cylinder, 1956 - 1959, © Daimler AG

The sixth picture shows how I clean the cylinders before taking the pistons out. This was done in order not to damage the piston rings when I took the pistons out "upwards". The seventh picture gives you an alternative way to take out the intermediate gear for the timing chain. Then follows pictures of some chain stuff incl idler gear and chain tightener, polished, white cad'ed and/or painted if necessary. The intermediate plate as well as the side covers were yellow cad'ed. The side covers had some pitting but I decided to do nothing about them. Maybe stupid but so it is. The outside was primed and the painted with the paint the block will have (see below).

  • "Original" status of the M 180 II engine, dressed in red by my father
  • "Original" status of the M 180 II engine, dressed in red by my father
  • Dismantling of the Ponton engine is under way
  • The cylinders and pistons of the type 219 engine soaked in oil to prevent any damage during the dismantling
  • Oil pan removed and now the dismantling of crank shaft and oil pump starts
  • Carefully cleaning the cylinders from any edges before taking the pistons out
  • Homemade puller for the intermediate gear in the M 1800 II engine
  • Idler and intermediate gear with shaft and bushing out, cleaned and painted as necessary
  • The chain tensioner of the 219 engine cleaned and checked
  • Intermediate plate out, cleaned and yellow cad'ed before paint
  • Side covers cleaned, yellow cad'ed and primed before the final black paint

Then the engine went south again, to Peter Nilsson. His pictures probably speaks for themselves. Peter started with cleaning the cylinder block from oil paint and dirt. Thereafter it was honed with 300 stone. The crankshaft was checked and pistons cleaned and re-assembled with new piston rings.

  • Cleaning the M 180 II block
  • Honing the Ponton engine's cylinders with 300 stone
  • The Ponton engine's cylinders are honed
  • Crankshaft checked
  • The six pistons were cleaned
  • New piston rings
  • New piston rings installed in the 219 engine

First a layer of Hagman's 2k primer was applied followed by black semi-gloss 2k paint from Standox. The flywheel was turned, assembled on the crankshaft together with a new starter ring gear and thereafter everything balanced. New rod and crankshaft bearings were installed. The last picture shows you the newly restored oil pump (more on that later...).

  • Cylinder block primed
  • Cylinder block painted semi-gloss black again
  • The flywheel was turned, assembled on the crankshaft together with a new starter ring gear and thereafter everything balanced.
  • Crankshaft installed with new bearings shells
  • Pistons installed with new piston rings and bearing shells
  • The old, but restored, oilpump installed. Only the oil pan is missing to make the Ponton cylinder block "complete"

Most of the pictures below speak for themselves. The cylinder head had already been restored by one of the "old" guys, Rulle, at that time working at Mercedes-Benz in Spånga. This was now dismantled one last time, double checked, oiled, assembled and then put where it belongs. Some say that the small black cover on the chest of the block ought to be stripped of its black paint and only yellow cad'ed. I've seen it unpainted, don't know if yellow or white cad, and I've seen it black, as in the MB-picture above. The plan was actually to have it unpainted but unluckily it got a layer of semi-gloss black paint and so it will be...

  • Oil pan on
  • Painted Ponton side covers on
  • Painted M 180 II side covers on
  • Double checked Mercedes 219 cylinder head ready for installation
  • Ponton cylinder head and chain assembled
  • Restored M 180 II engine, front left side
  • Restored M 180 II engine, front left side

Oil pump and filter

In my case the pump itself was perfect, completely tight - I could pump white spirit with slow turns of the shaft. The problem I had was with the drive shafts. On the first three pictures (taken with my cellular phone Ericsson P800 in bad lighting conditions...) you can see that the connection between the oil pumps shaft and the helical gear, that also connects to the distributor, was worn. These parts are "quite" expensive and if you choose to change them I would also change the rest of the drive mechanism (which in my case was in perfect condition, almost no wear at all); the intermediate gear shaft in the cylinder head as well as the other gear in the oil pump (or the whole pump itself...). After a lot of discussions with technical people, my engine restorer, Ponton advisors etc I came to the conclusion that a repair of the shafts would be good enough for how I'm going to use the car. The end result of that can be seen in the fourth picture.

I also had the two housing parts slightly leveled/smoothened. After assembly of the housing I got a slight resistance when turning the shaft. I re-oiled and re-assembled a couple of times with no luck. Was the money spent on fixing the shafts useless? I handed it over to Peter and resigned said, "Do whatever you can, if it doesn't work, we buy a new pump etc...". Lucky me, the problem was easy to solve, just twist the two housing parts slightly until the resistance disappears. Another stupid mistake from my side...

One alternative would have been to choose a pump from a W114/115 with higher a flow. Would however meant some rebuilding and I don't intend to drive the car faster and harder than I did when I was 20 - and the pump seamed to work under those conditions too.

  • Opened Ponton oil pump, wear on shaft to be seen
  • Shaft wear on oil pump clearly visible
  • Wear on helical gear shaft
  • Repaired oil pump shaft and helical gear shaft
  • All parts of a Ponton oil pump restored and ready for assembly
  • Ponton oil pump assembled

This is the original status of the upper part of the oil filter housing...

  • This is the original status of the upper part of the oil filter housing

See "And again..." below for the final solution of this item! Probably this replacement was not necessary but now I have a brand new pump in the engine and the restored one is saved as a spare. Feels safer...

And again...

While preparing the engine for startup in a running engine stand, I - more or less by luck - discovered that the helical gear, the shaft that connects the oil pump with the distributor, couldn’t be taken out upwards as easily as it should. Something was wrong. Since I had reused the old intermediate gear shaft as well as helical gear and oil pump, the latter two with a reparation done (see above), I suspected that something had happened there. I ordered everything new and dismantled the whole chain mechanism and oil pan. It was then I realized that the engine restorer had assembled not only the topmost chain guide wrongly, but also the intermediate gear’s retaining washer and front bearing bushing. This caused the whole mechanism to not move as easily as it should and I assume it would also give the shaft worse lubrication since the holes for the oil was wrongly positioned.

Below front bearing bushing assembled wrongly by 90 degrees clockwise meaning that it could move back and forth, in its turn blocking the shaft turning freely in certain conditions. If you want to see the correct way to assemble it; see workshop manual!

  • Front bearing bushing assembled wrongly by 90 degrees clockwise
  • Chain guide too low
  • chain guide damaged due to too low chain guide
  • Damaged Ponton chain guide
  • New Ponton chain guide in correct, high, position

The chain guide was also set one hole too low, causing the chain to come in contact with the bottom part of the guide (see damage to the guide in the third and fourth picture above) and possible also not guiding the chain between the idling and camshaft gears as it should. Old pictures from before I took the engine apart myself, years ago, shows the guide in high position. But my father had restored the engine and he could have had assembled it wrong as well. And unfortunately, I didn’t have any pictures of the head after it was restored by Mercedes, before my engine restorer took it down (why he decided to do that I don't know). So, before daring to assemble the guide in the higher position it took me some time to verify the position by asking several forums and contacts as well as looking at several M180-pictures, before I was 99% (still not 100% but it feels logically correct to me so I took this 1% chance). There is actually no assembly instruction or clear photo of it in the workshop manual and neither the local Mercedes-Benz shop, nor MB Classic Centre could give me an answer. It seems as if the position is set low in the 4 cylinder engine and high in the 6 cylinder engines. Don’t ask me why.

This is how I removed the chain guide pins. Fix a screw in the pin and block it from turning, in my case with a allen wrench, and drag it out by “tightening” the nut. I didn’t want to use “hammering force” for taking them out. Note the home made tool for bending out the locking wire on the chain guide.

  • This is one way to remove chain guides in a Mercedes-Benz 219
  • Tool for bending out the locking wire on the chain guide
  • Chain guide tool at work

New and old helicoil gear, intermediate gear shaft and oil pump. I kept the old bushings in the block for the shafts since they were in a very good shape. Tested for play and could't feel anything.

  • An old Ponton oil pump
  • New M 180 II intermediate gear shaft and helical gear
  • A new Ponton oil pump
  • New oil pump in place in the engine

Homemade counter hold while taking off the cam shaft gear (also used when tightening the screw) and also while finally tightening the screw. Final picture shows an even simpler solution for counter hold for the idling gear bolt. There are no torques given by the Tabellenbuch or the workshop manual so I used the standard torques; for the cam shaft screw M14 x 1,5 it is 150Nm (to be honest, I tightened it only up to ~120Nm) and 25Nm for the idling gear screw (M8 x 1,25).

  • Home made counter hold for camshaft gear screw
  • Puller for camshaft gear
  • Counter hold for idling gear screw

Maybe I should have taken the engine apart totally in order to double check everything that the engine restorer had done. After consulting two other engine restorers we came to the conclusion that the engine is so basic so that the only things that could be wrong – well, more or less – were the parts that I had discovered. So after having gone through the rest of the engine visually I deemed it to be OK. After having put the chain etc back, bled the chain tensioner and aligned the camshaft with the distributor as per the manual, I put the oil pan back, hopefully with the correct amount of sealant.

  • Sealant on Ponton oil pan before assembly
  • The result, hopefully not too much sealant

How to rebuild your old type of oil hose

For a long time, I have been trying to find a new replacement for the rubber hose that goes from the oil filter to the oil pressure gauge. You can order 136 540 02 59 from Mercedes et al (around €30 2017) but you will get the new version of this hose. If your Ponton has that type it's of course not a problem (I don't know when they switched from the old style to the new style). But if you have the old type, like me, you probably want that one. But don't by NOS, New Old Stock. This is not an option when it's a part containing rubber... It ages. In such a case, you have to rebuild your own, old hose.

The following describes what I learnt. Hopefully the hose-related terms are correctly understood by me and that I haven't simplified the processes or parts descriptions too much. Note, the description is based on what I learnt during discussions with several companies in Stockholm, reality may look different at your location.

The old type of Mercedes Ponton oil hose at the top and new type, sold by Mercedes et al, below. Note that the new one is yellow cad'ed

This picture shows you the old type of hose at the top and new type, sold by Mercedes et al, below. Note that the new one is yellow "cad'ed"

Take the old hose apart, i.e cut off the crimp-on hose-ends/collars and drag the old hose off from the fittings. Keep the old hose and collars so that you have the dimensions and can show your hose builder what you want. Clean up the fittings and have them white "cad'ed". Go to your hose builder and tell them you want:

  • a mandrel built ("dornbyggd" in Swedish) rubber hose, and not an extruded ("sprutad" or "formpressad" in Swedish) rubber hose. The mandrel built hose has a matt black surface that looks as if it has been wrapped in gauze bandage. The extruded hose has a glossy black and even surface which doesn't look "nice" or correct. To find the mandrel built hose can be a bit tricky since the outer diameter of the fittings are approximately 4,5mm. As I understood it, this is an unusually small dimension for mandrel built hoses which are normally used for larger applications. The hose should be approximately 11mm in outer diameter
  • the collar should be white "cad'ed", not yellow. The hose builder I found having the mandrel built hose didn't have white collars so I had to go to another hose builder to buy a couple of those. In my case the collars had a diameter of 11mm, a 7,2mm hole for the fitting and a length of 21mm. If you can find ones that are 2-3mm longer it looks more like the original collar - the collar should be crimped-on by hand to get the shorter crimp markings on the collar. If they are machined crimped the crimp markings will go all along the collar (see pictures below).

If you're situated in Stockholm, the only hose builder I found that could build this hose was NBM Hydraulik ABNBM Hydraulik AB. Hydroscand, Lundgrens or any of the other smaller companies a contacted/visited didn't have the tools or parts to do it, at least not summer 2017.

  • My first attempt to have this Ponton oil hose remade, the hose builder used an extruded hose and the collars are machine crimped-on
  • Detail picture of the machine vs hand crimped-on collars
  • Detail picture of the differences between the two hose types clearly, the extruded hose at the top and old mandrel built Ponton hose at the bottom

Above, the first picture shows my first attempt to have this oil hose remade; the hose builder used an extruded hose and the collars are machine crimped-on. The second picture is a detail picture of the machine vs hand crimped-on collars and in the third you can see the differences between the two hose types clearly, the old mandrel built at the bottom.

A rebuilt Ponton oil hose with mandrel built rubber hose and hand crimped-on collars

Above is the final result; original looking, white “cad’ed” collars and a matt black, mandrel built hose of the old type

If you can get the original company marking/logo etched onto the collar, even better :) I skipped that.

Next step

Before installing the engine, with its auxiliary systems mounted, I wanted to check that everything worked as it should, do necessary adjustments, re-tighten all screws and see to that I had no leaks, see Running the engine on test bed.

Fuel pump and air filter (09)

Drawing of Mercedes-Benz type 219, © Daimler AG

Drawing of Mercedes-Benz type 219, © Daimler AG

Fuel pump

See my Carburetor article regarding process - and photo quality. Maybe the article on Fuel tank and fuel filter, can give something as well?!

As with the carburetor you need to level all surfaces where gaskets etc sit. I did that with hard, fine sandpaper (silicon carbide paper?) on a leveled surface, a cutting board made out of marble. I also leveled the surfaces for the intake and exhaust valves' valve plates.

The fuel pump's intermediary flange is made of aluminium. After glass beading it, the surface gets a little bit too rough. This is taken care of with tumbling (as with for example the cylinder head cover). Glass/bead tumbling gives beaded aluminium parts a slightly more glossy finish. In Stockholm you can find the shop Svenska Trumlingsaktiebolaget that does that type of work.

I re-used the diaphragm, it wasn't too old at the time for this restoration, and I thought that if it break it's easy to change. Thought I had to spare a few weak Swedish Kronor at least... In the right-hand corner of the "parts picture, you can almost (!) see the tapper for the fuel pump drive with its bushing and sleeve. Check the tapper for wearing. Using an ordinary puller it was an easy job to extract the bushing and insert the new sleeve. But remember to measure the bushings overhang, outside the intermediary flange - it's difficult to see when it's fully pressed in. I used a vise to press it in. The last picture shows the rubber sleeve behind the bushing in the intermediary flange, the one that is attached to the cylinder crankcase. See the thorough article written by Doug on the Ponton pages, Mercedes-Benz Ponton Fuel Pumps (lever-type, priming, gasoline)Mercedes-Benz Ponton Fuel Pumps (lever-type, priming, gasoline).

  • The fuel pump of a Mercedes-Benz 219 before restoration
  • Fuel pump housing being leveled
  • All parts for the fuel pump ready for assembly
  • All parts for the fuel pump ready for assembly, version 2 with all screws, gaskets etc as well
  • W105 fuel pump assembled
  • Ponton fuel pump assembled
  • Mercedes-Benz 219 fuel pump assembled
  • Rubber sleeve behind the bushing in the fuel pump's intermediary flange

And again...

In April 2017 I replaced the old diaphragms, all other gaskets and valve plates and most of the springs. Cheap and worth it... I don't know what I was thinking of the first time I went through it.

And once again...

While testing the engine (see Running the engine on test bed) I had some intermittent problems which pointed towards the fuel supply. After having run it on high rev (in this case 4500rpm) it started to go bad and finally stop totally. If I engaged the lever on the fuel pump I got the familiar "pump sound" and I could hear fuel coming into the carburetor bowl. If I restarted the engine it normally run well until I did a high rev again. So, no fuel but the pump was working!? Took the pump off and apart. Everything looked good. Assembled it and holding my lip or tongue against the intake nipple I could feel that it had suction, created a vacuum. Stupid me thought that was enough, I didn't realize that it was a problem that the vacuum didn't hold more than a couple of seconds. Kind people informed me that it was. So where did I have the leak? Everything was newly restored and looked good. Henry M on the Ponton list, kindly asked me to see to that the top of the fuel pump cap, where you have the screw and a fiber washer, was flat. Mine was not, it was pressed in by years of tightening the screw. The drawing of the cap in the workshop manual shows that it originally is a bit pressed in (mine was more than that) but I did as Henry told me - and voila, the pump could hold the vacuum for at least 2h. 

So, I put it back on the engine and still had the same problem. Tore J on the Ponton list then kindly informed me that you have to assure that you have no air leaks (can hold vacuum) all the way over the fuel filter back to the fuel tank (in my case a fuel canister since I was testing the engine on a test bed). I didn't have that. Tightened everything and verified that I had vacuum 2h (had other things to fiddle with in the meantime). After that the engine run as it should without stalling. 

Lesson learned; see to that you have NO air leaks on the intake side of the fuel pump back to the tank. I used "holding vacuum for 2h" as a measurement of that and it was obviously enough. If you have leaks on the fuel pump's pressure side that will be more visible, fuel leaking out.  

Measuring that the fuel pump delivers enough fuel

During the search for reasons for the stalling engine during the test runs, as mentioned above, I also decided to test the fuel flow according to the workshop manual. According to the workshop manual the fuel pump should deliver 35-40l/h with camshaft 2500rpm (equals crankshaft 1250rpm) through a nozzle with 2mm diameter. My starter runs with approximately 400rpm and I tested during 20sec. Given this I should get around 0,08l. I got 0,17l.

The test had a very simple setup, on the outlet nipple I attached a hose in which I had inserted a nozzle with a 2mm opening and then I run the starter, holding the time - 20 sec - using the timer in my cell phone.

How to test the fuel flow of a Mercedes Ponton fuel pump

Video on YouTube showing how I tested the fuel pump flow

The fittings and hose was bought from Hydroscand ABHydroscand AB and the 2mm nozzle from AN3 PartsAN3 Parts (summer 2017).

Air filter

The restoration of the Ponton's air filter I'm actually quite proud of too. The pictures are too bad to show the end result. Everything was glass beaded or sandblasted; if necessary buffed and then white cad'ed if not supposed to be painted to 100%. I had the control arm for the linkage pull rod to carburetor partly white cad'ed and partly semi gloss black. Can be noted that the control arm for the linkage pull rod actually belongs to Carburetor but I decided to have it viewed here together with the air filter support. And yes, the air filter itself was more than thoroughly covered with 2-5 layers of tape and paper etc during the process.

  • Air filter support and carburetor linkage before restoration
  • Air filter support and carburetor linkage before restoration
  • Air filter support restored
  • All the parts for the Ponton incl air filter

Next step

Before installing the engine, with its auxiliary systems mounted, I wanted to check that everything worked as it should, do necessary adjustments, re-tighten all screws and see to that I had no leaks, see Running the engine on test bed.

Carburetor (07)

For control arm, see Fuel pump and air filter.

Mercedes-Benz Motor M 180 II - Typ 219 Sechszylinder, 1956 - 1959., © Daimler AG

Mercedes-Benz Motor M 180 II for Ponton type 219, Sechszylinder, 1956 - 1959., © Daimler AG

As with some other parts this had to be done more than once. Here we go...

The first round

First the carburetor, a Solex 32 PAATI, was totally dismantled, everything was marked and I made a drawing on how everything was assembled (note however, that you always forget to draw the most important thing and that it may have been assembled incorrectly). Thereafter the parts were washed with a carburetor cleaner from CRC. All plane surfaces (normally the ones where the gaskets etc sat) where leveled with hard, fine sandpaper (silicon carbide paper?).

After that, everything was put back together again, with all holes stuffed up. And after that came the fun part, glass beading with 150-250 micron glass beads (which may a little to big?!) using 6 bar. This gave the carburetor its original finish back. Some small areas are however a bit granulous. The funny thing is that the items first looked rather blotchy, but after a couple of days the surface got an even, light grey color. All screws etc were re-finished in yellow and necessary gaskets, diaphragms and other items ordered.

Sorry for the bad photo quality, there are more photos but I think they'll only be usable for me...

  • This is how the Solex 32 PAATI looked from the beginning
  • Throttle valve housing and float chamber
  • Dismantled Solex 32 PAATI, focus on throttle valve housing
  • Dismantled Solex 32 PAATI, focus on carburetor cover
  • Starting point for the throttle part. Not especially even...

After the beading I had to take a photo of all the parts involved (partners get used to this after some time). The last picture shows you the assembled jewel.

I had some issues with the screws for the accelerator pump. They are supposed to be M4*0,75 (why didn't they use M4*0,5 - fine?) which I also ordered from Karasch. Unfortunately, when the carburetor was overhauled ~15 years ago the shop "repaired" (awfully bad done though) these threads with M5*0,8 (coarse). I didn't realize this until now. This was followed by long discussions with the guys on the Ponton list as well as with the Swedish MB list with a lot of valuable ideas coming out. After some time I settled for the easy solution, installing Helicoil M5*0,8 (thanks for the help Colly Company) and bought screws looking like the original ones. They were yellow plated as the rests of the screws and nuts. But I suppose that the other suggestions will come in to use on other parts.

Conclusion, be very careful with what threads you are working with. If you look in the spare parts book you can identify all screws and nuts that have these funny dimensions, M4*0,75 and M5*0,75. I don't think that you can find inserts for them but you can find taps and dices. With them you are able to make your own inserts!

  • A Solex 32 PAATI ready for glass beading
  • A glass beaded Solex 32 PAATI
  • All parts restored, ready for assembly
  • Throttle housing being assembled
  • A restored Solex 32 PAATI, view 1
  • A restored Solex 32 PAATI, view 2
  • A restored Solex 32 PAATI, view 3. Note yellow dots for ensuring that screws are thightened and not forgotten
  • A restored Solex 32 PAATI, view 4. Note yellow dots for ensuring that screws are thightened and not forgotten

When the carburetor was overhauled, they installed new bushings for the throttle shaft, unfortunately not with rubber sealings. Instead they had milled a ~3mm large "hole" on each side of the float housing and sealed the shaft with plastic sealings in these holes. That didn't feel like a perfect solution. I didn't want to put in new bushings with rubber sealings so I tested a couple of rubber sealings to see if I could find anyone with a size that fitted my present situation. I did, so I went for the - in my opinion at least - second best solution. I smeared them with rubber grease and covered the whole thing with the plastic sealings I already had to protect it from dust. The shaft moves like it should and now I suppose it will by tight and let no air through for a lot of years.

  • Drawing of throttle shaft repair

The screws that holds the Bowden cable for the choke is a special screw with a fine thread, M5 x 0,75. In my case the threads in the housing are severely worn out at the opening. Reparing with Helicoil inserts is not possible since the pot metal is to thin and in itself too fragile. After a lot of discussions with Will Samples and the technical specialists at Colly Components (and they have been very helpful, sharing their deep knowledge in other areas during this restoration, thanks!!), we came to the conclusion that there's actually nothing to do. The only long term solution is to buy a new throttle part, but at this point I'm not willing to do that. The other solution is to make use of the good threads at the end of the hole, and applying Loctite Medium at the opening. We'll see if it holds.

  • The screw for holding the bowden wire with M5 x 0,75 thread
  • The screw for holding the bowden wire with M5 x 0,75 thread. Here you can clearly see that there is not enough material for a repair.

And again...

Before reinstalling the carburetor on the engine I wanted to double check that it worked after my previous old restoration and also make the basic adjustments according to the workshop manual. The test of the diaphragm/accelerator pump failed; Firstly too little gasoline coming out of the injection tubes, secondly a gasoline leakage under the accelerator pump housing. Only very small one but enough to disturb the pump's function.

The Solex 32 PAATI back on the M 180 II engine of a Mercedes type 219

The Solex 32 PAATI back on the M 180 II engine


We start with the simple problem, the leaking accelerator pump housing. 

Taking the accelerator pump of I also realized that I had been too cowardly when leveling the surface. I didn't dare to take the guiding pin out but tried to get an even and leveled surface around it. But just around the pin, there is a small "hill", enough for making it impossible for the pump housing to attach firmly to the carburetor housing and the rubber gasket to seal. You can see this in the first picture. That was of course not good and taking the pin carefully out with pliers was very easy. Sanded again and got a perfect result (#2) The housing was now "a bit" more easy to level. Also did this on the starter valve which you can see in picture three. In the third picture you can see that the guiding pin has a hole. That was filled with dirt. I cleaned it with a bit of metal thread which is probably not advisable. Should probably have done it more carefully. We'll see... In the fourth picture, to the left, you can see the new diaphragm and the new spring I inserted. To the right is the old spring as well as the new diaphragm I installed when I restored the carb as per above. thought it was better to have something really fresh in there.

  • Old accelerator pump housing and its diaphragm and rubber gasket. The housing not enough leveled and hence leaking gasoline.
  • Accelerator pump housing leveled
  • PAATI starter air valve leveled
  • New gasket and spring for starter air valve on Solex 32 PAATI

Accelerator pump

According to the Workshop manual you are to use a set of extra injection tubes and turn them outside the venture tube and the carburetor body and into a glass measuring cylinder. And you're absolutely not to use the existing injection tubes while doing this. Since I know that I have fiddled with those during the restoration I took them apart anyway, cleaned everything including the surface between the injection tube “housing” and the carburetor and checked the gasket as well as the balls under the tubes (pictures 1 and 2 below). Will Samples told me to seal the injection tubes with epoxy or likewise if they leak after this. They did not however. Getting new ones as separate spare part seemed impossible.

My "test bed" for the measurement you can see in the third picture. You set the amount of fuel by adjusting the nut on the rod. Outside of the nut there should only be a few threads visible. When I took the carburetor apart the nut sat 1,5 mm from the end of the rod (see fourth picture where the distance is 9 mm). The first problem I encountered was that the lever seemed to get stuck from time to time. That was solved by assembling the pump loosely, give "full gas" a couple of times and then tighten everything. That way the diaphragm settles itself in the correct position. After that I tested the pump according to the workshop manual with my "test bed". The pump is supposed to deliver 1,3-1,5 ml per stroke. I did not achieve that. The list below shows distance in millimeters between end of rod and the first nut.

  • 2mm => 6,5ml
  • 3mm => 7,5ml
  • 4mm => 8,5ml
  • 5mm => 9ml
  • 6mm => -9ml
  • 8mm => 8,5ml

Definitely not good. After a lot of contacts with Will and other knowledgeable club people (above all a huge thanks to VHD I started to think that my didn't get pressed out long enough. So I went out looking for a new spring - and a brand new diaphragm (I also bought the same stuff new for the starter valve as per above). Found it and installed it. In the fifth picture you see the new diaphragm I installed during the first restoration, the old one and finally the newest one. The old and the new spring is above. The length didn't really differ between them but you could definitely feel more resistance with you compressed the new. I the sixth pic you can see how I moved the shaft to the new diaphragm. And finally, in the seventh picture, you can see the lever now being pressed out. Before the new spring the lever was pointing out from the carburetor. Another way to look at it is in the last two pictures where you can see that the new spring moved the "pressure point" (where the lever lays on the diaphragm) on the rod, 4 mm!

  • The ball valve under the injection tubes
  • Injection tubes
  • Home made test bed for adjusting the right amount of fuel when giving gas on a Solex 32 PAATI
  • Lever adjustment nut on rod
  • New and old accelerator pump diaphragms and springs
  • Assembly of Solex accelerator pump diaphragm
  • Lever pressed out by new spring, view 1
  • Lever pressed out by new spring, view 2
  • Lever pressed out by new spring, view 3

The first test with all these parts replaced did give me more fuel but still not enough. I gave it up a couple of days. The next time I tried it, I regularly got a nice stream over and over again (and also on the correct spot by adjusting the injection tubes slightly). It obviously needed to sit for a couple of days to really settle in. With the locking nut on the connection rod being screwed in as per below I get the following amount measured over 20 strokes:

  • 6mm => 1.05ml
  • 7mm => 1.22ml
  • 8mm => 1.35ml
  • 9mm => 1.55ml

Still a bit too little, but it may also be due to that gasoline vaporize quickly, that I loose some while it's pouring and dripping into the measuring glass. We'll see how the engine goes. The amount is supposed to be between 1.3-1.5 ml so I chose 8 mm.

Another thing that disturbed me for "some time" was that I during my test measurements noted that gasoline was leaking around the mixing tubes if I leaned the carburetor more than approximately 20 degrees, i.e. as if the car was standing uphill (front higher than rear so to speak). See first picture below. I put a lot of thought and mailing into this. I couldn't see exactly where it came from, from the four holes in the mixing tubes or if there was a leak at its base was difficult to say. That would mean that the car would leak gasoline into the engine when you park it uphill. Cannot be right… But then Will asked me to read to see where I could encounter such a situation. Not many. And if the car is sitting on an incline and not running, the fuel will run out until there is not enough to run out anymore. This will be a very small amount. If the car is operating the fuel will be sucked into the engine. Either way, this is not a problem. So know you know too :)!!

Among other things I have replaced are the float needle valve. I didn't thought that would be necessary but when I got the new one and compared their function, what a difference. It is not strange since it's being used all the time while you are driving... Also new idling nozzles and the return valve in the accelerator pump. This you can see in picture 2 and 3.

  • Leaning Solex carburetor
  • New float needle
  • New idling nozzles and the return valve in the accelerator pump

Putting the Solex 32 PAATI back on the M 180 II

I used sealant on the insulating flange as well as a gasket (I don't think it should go there but my father had it and I didn't want to smear the protecting plate under the carb). A small amount of vaseline went on the paper gasket under the carburetor as you can see in the second picture. The other two pictures show the carburetor in place on the engine as well as with the restored air cleaner on top. 

  • Sealant on insulating flange
  • Vaseline on paper gasket between the Solex and its protecting plate
  • An almost complete M 180 II engine with the Solex 32 PAATI in place together with the air cleaner

Next step

Before installing the engine, with its auxiliary systems mounted, I wanted to check that everything worked as it should, do necessary adjustments, re-tighten all screws and see to that I had no leaks, see Running the engine on test bed.

Intake pipe, exhaust manifold and exhaust system (14, 49)

Exhaust system (49)

My new stainless steel exhaust system for Mercedes type 219

My new stainless steel exhaust system

Unfortunately I haven't started with that but I'll add it as soon as the process has started! For the time being I can at least show you the pictures of the restored exhaust tube bracket, first in yellow "cadmium" after sandblasting and then in the heat resistant Eastwood's Factory Gray High Temp Coating.

  • Bracket for exhaust tube in yellow "cadmium"
  • Bracket for MB W105 exhaust tube painted with heat resist paint from Eastwood

Intake pipe and exhaust manifold (14)

Front axle support Mercedes-Benz type 220 1954, © Daimler AG

Front axle support (Vorderachsträger, Fahrschemel) Mercedes-Benz type 220, 1954, © Daimler AG

The original status of the exhaust manifold was quite boring. The intake pipe, made of aluminium, is glass beaded. I'll didn't spend time on tumbling the aluminium to give it a little bit more glossy finish since I was a little bit afraid of getting tumble media stuck inside the channels in the intake. The exhaust manifold is sand blasted and the use of Eastwood's Factory Gray High Temp Coating made the parts look like new. We'll see how sturdy the paint is. I've pre-heated the parts in the oven, at 275C for a couple of hours. The last picture shows the exhaust manifold in place together with the heating flap and a new thermo spiral. I actually have a new heating flap but by mistake the old one was mounted.

  • Inttake pipe and exhaust manifold taken off the engine
  • Glass beaded Ponton intake pipe
  • Exhaust manifold sand blasted
  • Exhaust manifold painted in heat resisting paint and assembled on the Mercedes M 180 II engine
  • Intake pipe mounted on the Mercedes M 180 II engine